Paris Fashion Week: Newport Seen Views Emanuel Ungaro Collection

Backstage at Ungaro fashion show

The lighting is dramatic, the music is fast paced. You can feel the beat coursing through your body. The air is electrified, hundreds of cameras are clicking. Editors, buyers and celebrities have the choice seats. The mannequins (models) are polished from head to toe. The colors dazzle. There is a certain undefined feeling of the surreal....you are at a defile! (French for fashion show).

The season's shoes on display

Tout le monde wanted to be at the Emanuel Ungaro show on October 4. And I was not going to disappoint NewportSeen readers even if it did mean climbing up on a large square block to get a great view of the action. The show started about an hour late. The crowd got impatient and didn't mind expressing themselves with hooting and some shouting. They seemed to be hoping for the disaster that the world of fashion had predicted. La raison? Lindsay Lohan, the wild child who has become Artistic Advisor to the House of Emanuel Ungaro. One wonders if this was something Estrella Archs, the Artistic Director, really wanted or if it was forced on her in a desperate move to revive the house and appeal to a younger clientele. (It has been rumored that several designers quit just weeks before the show). When they took their final bows Estrella Archs and Lohan were of course all smiles and came out arm in arm. Next to me was a writer who said she was from Vogue. She called the show "pretty but predictably boring". That may be fashion lingo for, "You just fell on your sword." If hearts are your thing this show used them in every conceivable place, including pasties. The skirts were oh so short, and there was no sparing the horses when it came to PINK! These shows are fast paced, high risk productions. The average show lasts about 14 minutes. Imagine putting your career on the line in just under 15 minutes.

Trés chic, Parisian style

In comparison the Costume National show was much edgier, as would be expected from Ennio Capasa. I truly admire his hyper modern innovations on the classics. Of course it will take some reinterpreting to prepare these runway lines for the general public. To find out what was really going to be found in most stores I attended the Tranoi trade show. It is the largest and most prestigious in Paris during fashion week. It often takes a designer years to finally be accepted by Tranoi. Although most are from France and Italy designers from around the world vie for a booth at Tranoi. Tranoi is for small to moderately sized brands (houses) that do not have runway shows but still need a place to market their lines.

Over 50 lines were represented this year. They included accessories as well as high end clothing lines. I really didn't see much change from last year, at least based on what is in Paris boutiques. Fashion jewelry continues to focus on the necklace and the theme seems to be "bigger is better". If they go much larger other apparel may not be necessary. Shoes: be creative. If you can think of a new way to combine a sandal and a boot or a boot and a pair of stilettos you have missed your calling. I have to confess I was taken by the boot/stiletto that had ruched leather around the ankle. And get used to the fact that leggings are now a staple in any wardrobe. I once called jeans the new black slacks. Leggings, like jeans, are here to stay. I just wish more people would cover the derriere when they choose to wear them. Purses continue to be huge and by that I mean size as well as popularity. But pretty little clutches are inching their way in. The most elegant are made by a Scottish company that is not yet in the US. But they should be. The problem is that the US market is so large that the company can't produce enough since they are made from all natural materials. I plan to track a couple down no matter what it takes.

The runway parade at Ungaro

In closing, Paris may still be considered the capital of fashion by many, but the world is smaller each day and young designers from India, China, and Eastern Europe are coming on strong. To prove just how small the world is, Carlo and Alessandra send their regards to Jonathan and Bettie Pardee.

It can be a let down when the excitement of fashion weekends. My cure for that is creme brulee and champagne...works every time.

Au revoir and bisous (kisses) de Paris, Jana